Restaurants & Bars

“Preston Vineyard” Lamb Chorizo Hash with Duck Eggs ala Mateo Granados (Santa Rosa, Sebastopol, Healdsburg FMs and Pop-Up)

Melanie Wong | Apr 10, 201004:42 PM     4

Last Saturday I made it to the Saturday morning market at the Vets building, sliding in just in time to have brunch at Mateo Granados booth. Here’s his menu for the day:

Just reading the words “lamb chorizo hash” made my mouth-water . . . and this dish delivered on all counts. This shows the hash made with Oh Tommy Boy fingerling potatoes topped with fried duck eggs, braising greens with Lou’s toast on a bed of black bean puree. The winter greens were fantastic, prepped in three different ways. The tiny baby shoots were served raw, some were pickled for juicy crunch and a tart accent, and the Swiss chard was braised to sweet tenderness.

When Granados came over to check on my opinion, I gushed about how much I loved the grassy flavor and richness of Sonoma spring lamb with chorizo spices. He said, “Yes, exactly, that’s what we’re trying to do. I used a blend of chiles from Tierra, sea salt and a lot of extra virgin olive oil to cure the lamb shoulder. We punch it down for five days, just like making wine.” I asked why he used olive oil instead of fat, and he explained that the fat would make the flavor too strong for this short cure. He said that lamb fat needs a 30-day cure to mellow out.

I was the last customer of the day, and Granados insisted that I wait for a little lagniappe. He grilled thick slabs of sweet cara-cara oranges on the flat top in extra virgin olive oil along with small grilled asparagus tips and garnished with slivers of radish and sea salt. Brilliant.

Mateo Granados noticed me taking photos of his gift, then came over to turn the plate to this orientation. This is how the chef wants his creation to be viewed!

Now that the Sebastopol farmers market has started on Sunday mornings, I don’t know whether Granados will continue to serve in Santa Rosa. The other news is the Tendejon de la Calle, a pop-up street food venue at 9607 Eastside Road in Healdsburg, which is around the bend from “J’ Winery. Advance reservations/orders (call 707-623-5474) are required for the Wednesday and Thursday evening (5pm till dusk) delivery with a menu that will change weekly.

Here’s the menu from the flyer for the April 14 & 15 dates:

Sopa de Raiz de Apio – Tierra Vegetable celery root soup, fava bean pesto, $8
Ensalada de Esparragos – Manuel’s warm asparagus salad, cara cara oranges, Redwood hill raw milk feta, $9
Cabeza de Chivo – Preston Vineyard crispy goat head cheese, Middleton Farm pickled rhubarb, White Crain spring greens, $10

Pollo de Achiote – Tully Dolci chicken breast marinated in annatto, Oh Tommy Boy potato-caper salad, Manuel’s seasonal vegetables, $16
Pescado Locale – Pan-seared local cod, White Crane Spring watercress sauce, Tierra Vegetable saffron-infused carrots, $17
Chicharron de Pato – Salmon Creek Ranch duck breast, Middleton Farm rhubarb sauce, Manuel’s pea and fava tendril salad, $18
Especial de la Casa, Cordonejo – Jones Rabbit Farm rabbit and Angelo’s quail marinated in Granados Family secret spices, baked Calabasparra rice, sauce Escabeche, $19

Seasonal agua fresca, $3

I won’t be able to be there, but I hope some of the local ‘hounds will check it out and report back.

Preston Vineyards & Winery
9206 W Dry Creek Rd, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Tierra Vegetables
651 Airport Blvd, Santa Rosa, CA 95403

Jones Rabbit Farm
140 Millbrae Ave, Santa Rosa, CA 95407

J Vineyards & Winery
11447 Old Redwood Hwy, Healdsburg, CA

Mateo Granados
399 Business Park Dr, Windsor, CA

Oh Tommy Boy's
5880 Carroll Road, Petaluma, CA 94952

Salmon Creek Ranch
1400 Bay Hill Rd, Bodega, CA

Middleton Farm
2651 Westside Rd, Healdsburg, CA

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