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Three places in Chinatown, Boston

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Restaurants & Bars

Three places in Chinatown, Boston

Limster | Jan 10, 2003 10:57 PM

A perfect bowl of noodles at Hong Kong Eatery. Thin al dente threads of noodles in a clear shrimp broth. Impeccable all crunchy shrimp wontons and good char siew (glazed roasted pork). Bonus: watch them make your noodles through a glass panel. Wontons are not pre-wrapped but made fresh on the premises -- probably explains their exceptional quality.

Yan's Best Place isn't necessarily the best, but it does cook competent homey stuff. Sweet and sour pork actually comes with a more than decent sauce and plenty of onions (which I like) and sans the scary pink-glo substance. Mustard green stems with mushrooms and bamboo pith fungus is also good even if it's not of the highest quality. Not that I'll be rushing back, but it's just right as home cooking as far as I'm concerned.

Korea House has a pretty varied and interesting menu. Sauteed octopus is a bit too tough, even though the hot red bean sauce is very savory with all sorts of good flavors, especially with the generous addition of green onions. Sop up the sauce with the provided noodles (I picked the Korean variety, a thin angel hair-like rice noodle.) Five small dishes (panchan IIRC) were better: pretty good kimchee (mostly the leafy parts which I love, nice chilli pickling sauce), an OK bean sprouts (wish it had more sesame oil), good cucumber and seaweed (a variety resembling the broad leaved wakame), tangy pickles of turnip and carrots, gelantinous strips of mung bean jelly in soy sauce with scallions and sesame seeds (for afficionados of Sichuan food, it's more or less like liang2 fen3).

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