Thanks to all the posters who recommended Philoxenia in Astoria. Went with a few friends for the first time Saturday night and absolutely swooned over the lovingly prepared food.
The grilled octopus was a big hit even with the seafood skeptic in our group. Other appealing dishes were the broiled porgy, meatballs, and special feta cheese cooked in an aluminum foil pouch. All of the food was terrific. Those were just the standouts among the things I tried.
The service started out great and then all but disappeared, however. Our waitress vanished into the kitchen about halfway through the meal, apparently to help with the cooking, and we were stranded for quite a while. We weren't in a hurry, so this wasn't the worst thing in the world. But we got a little desperate for water and a refill on wine as the evening wore on.
No big deal, and I definitely plan on going back.