It's on the Wandsworth one-way system and traffic thunders past, but it was the most interesting food I've had in some time. And admirably cheap. Our starter, kasheke bademjan, was mashed grilled aubergine with fried mint sauce, a mysterious yogurt-like slick called kashk, chopped walnuts and lots of garlic. Morasa polo was chicken (not wonderful) in a light tomatoey sauce with superb rice scattered copiously with currants, pistachioes and three-day orange peel. Chelo koresh was less successful.
It's BYO, always a good thing. Our meal for two, including £1 a head corkage, came to £20.
I worry for them; we were the only people there on Tuesday night and today they are closed because the chef is in hospital. Hurry to eat there!
Mary's Restaurant, 16a Fairfield Street, SW18 1DY. Wandsworth Town is the nearest train station and there are buses.