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JillyJu | May 4, 200512:37 AM     40

I've had a giant hankering for pastrami for the last week, probably because of sneaking peaks at the posts about it on the New York board.

Out of desperation I bought some today at Saul's. They are using Neiman Ranch meat, slicing it to order, and the package was warm when it was handed to me.

Tonight I warmed up some rye bread, slathered it with mustard, and loaded it up with the pastrami. The meat looked good, well marbled with fat, and very moist. More importantly, it tasted fantastic! The seasoning on the outside was nicely peppery. The meat was rich and smooth--I think the word unctuous may have been developed just to describe this food.

I'm not a Saul's fan, and I've been disappointed by their pastrami in the past. I don't know if the improvement in the pastrami department means that any of the rest of their food has changed. The last time I ate there was for breakfast, because it's a favorite place of friends with a child who has tantrums if she is taken somewhere without either hamburgers or freshly roasted turkey on the menu. Breakfast was just as annoying as I remembered Saul's to be--haphazard service and unimpressive food.

I'll go to Saul's willingly now--though I may never stray from the pastrami.

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