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Our trip was the 3rd week of April, the week before Easter. Most of our eating choices were made on the fly with focus on convenience and value. The first two nights we stayed in the Marais before moving to a friend's apartment in the Latin Quarter/Jardin des Plantes.
L’As du Fallafel. We ventured out after we arrived on an early Sunday evening. Rue de Rosiers was 5 minutes from where we stayed. We waited about 15-20 minutes in the take-away line, ate our falafel pitas (6.5€) on the street and made our way toward the river and Notre Dame to get our bearings.
La Droguerie on Rue de Rosiers. We waited about 15 minutes in line for lunch on Monday after touring Notre Dame (the fire was that very evening), St. Chappelle and the Conciergerie. Delicious, inexpensive savory crepes. There’s a tiny sitting area inside with 4 seats. Luckily the seats were empty when it was our turn to order, and the delightful owner invited us in to sit in the charming space.
Yann Couvreur on Rue des Rosiers. We stopped across the street for a pain au choclat and some pear tart to bring back for a late afternoon treat. It’s a beautiful shop.
Boulangerie Huré on Rue Rambateau. A very pretty neighborhood bakery with a nice selection of pastries and savory pave mini sandwiches.
Latin Quarter/Jardin des Plantes:
Eric Kayser on Rue Monge. We were a short walk away and went there a couple of times for baguettes, almond croissant, pomme de chausson. We discovered a block down that La Maison d’Isabelle at the Place Maubert won for best butter croissant in 2018. We did a taste test against the Eric Kayser croissant and agreed the La Maison d’Isabelle one was better.
D’Amore Mio on Rue Linne. Northern Italian, downstairs from where we stayed. We went for lunch and had bruschetta with burrata, spaghetti carbonara and lasagna. All fine.
Fermier Gourmet on Blvd. St. Germain. My family had steak frites, you can chose fries or veggies (or half and half) and salad. I had the duck and thought mine was the best. It’s a very reasonable, fast casual kind of place (14€ for dinner). Easy place when you are tired after a long day of walking and sightseeing.
Le Jardin des Pâtes on Rue Lacépède. This was around the corner from where we stayed. Small, charming, friendly restaurant serving interesting pastas. They mill everything and make pastas using rye, barley, buckwheat or other flours. 14-16€ an entree.
Gelati d’Alberto on Rue Mouffetard for gelato. Interesting flavors, two scoops for 3.50€
After a morning visit to the Catacombs, we walked to Rue Mouffetard. Near the bottom of the hill, Le Fournil had a mouthwatering display of sandwiches and pizzas (3.5-4.5€). We brought these down the street to sit in the church garden a block down the hill.
Sellae on Rue des Wallons (13th arr). Our nice dinner of the trip, a 10 minute walk from our apartment. Thank you for the recommendation, John Talbott! We all enjoyed the 3 course 3614-16€ menu with a choice of three starters, entrees and desserts. The standouts were the squid starter, snail ravioli; the hake entrée; chocolate mousse, and lemon sorbet. Unfortunately, I didn’t make a reservation and called at 6:30pm, an hour before opening. They had a table, but only outside. We were happy to have it at all, but the décor inside is nicer.
Grand Mosque on Rue Geoffroy-Sainte-Hilaire. On our last day, we stopped by for tea and baklava in the courtyard after a long day at Versailles. And my daughter was hungry so we went up the hill to La Petit Bretonn, on Rue Mouffetard off Place Contrescarpe for our final Breton crêpe before saying Au Revoir, Paris, early the next morning.
Buillon Pigalle. We went for lunch after spending the morning in Montmarte and visiting Sacre Couer. We waited about 15 minutes at 12:30pm. The line was about the same when we left at 1:30. We tried the Beef Bourguignon, Veal Stew, and Salmon and Sorrel with rice. Chocolate mousse and “Floating Island” for dessert. The food was okay, it was a convivial experience and likely better than some of the tourist traps near Sacre Couer.
Sanukiya (1st arr). We went to the Louvre on a Wednesday evening to avoid the crowds. Afterwards, we walked to Sanukiya for udon and got in line around 9:10 and waited about 30 minutes. We all agreed the broths were good and I enjoyed mine with duck, though I have had better, more toothsome udon noodles (in San Francisco where we live).
Musee D'Orsay: We went to the museum on a Thursday evening to avoid the crowds. We ate at Café Campana the 5th floor café, just after the Impressionist Gallery with the big clock and a terrace you can step out on and look across the river. I had a Caesar salad with chicken. My family had pasta and tomato sauce, quiche Lorraine and salad, salmon and potatoes. 14-16€. It fueled us enough to see the rest of museum. If you are there for lunch, Le Restaurant on the 1st floor, looks beautiful and offers 2 courses for 24.50€.
Food Halls: Le Bon Marche and Galleries Lafayette. I enjoyed some delicious sandwiches, duck pate and charcuterie.
Versailles. We were there on a Sunday and our bike tour stopped at the market in the morning to buy picnic supplies. It was a full market day so that was a treat.
We made it over to Fondation Louis Vuitton, but unfortunately we went on Saturday and transportation was really disrupted. If the protests continue on Saturdays, only go to places you can walk or be sure the metro is not disrupted. My husband went to Les Invalides and had no problems on our side of the river.
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