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Paris review: Senderens

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Paris review: Senderens

Lori McLaughlin | Nov 25, 2005 11:38 AM

A few quick notes from dinner at Senderens this past Wednesday. Luckily, the remodeling saved the beautifully carved woodwork on the walls. The new restaurant is quite eccletic with the ornate woodwork and the very modern, oriental styling of the new tables and accessories.

The amuse bouche was an incredible tempura fried scallop with a light butter sauce--I could have sworn it was lobster.

For our entrees, we couldn't decide between the ricotta ravioli with citron/thyme, sage and capers or the lobster/mango salad with a basil sauce, so we ordered both. They were equally well done. As with Lucas Carton, Senderens maintains the tradition of pairing each dish with a glass of wines. The wines appeared to be a step down from the wines previously served and selected on the Lucas Carton menu. The ravioli was paired with a 2004 Quenioux Cheverny Les Veilleurs which I found a little green. The lobster salad was paired with a 2002 M. Deiss Engelgarten which was light, crisp and a nice match for the salad.

For our main course, we both ordered the scallops with zucchini and a ginger butter sauce. The scallops were served on mini-skewers with slices of zucchini and fresh ginger and floating in the broth. This was a fantastic dish--the "sauce" also had hints of butter and lemongrass in the light creamy bouillon. Just delightful--I opted not to eat each the "garnishes" of the zucchini and fresh ginger as the fresh ginger proved a little too strong for my tastes. This dish was paired with a 2004 D. Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu. Kudos!

For dessert, Senderens maintains one of the more famous dishes from Lucas Carton, the chocolate dessert, La Samana, with a side of amarena cherries, which was paired with the 2004 Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto d'Acqui. Our other dessert was the dacquoise with Szechuan pepper, lemon confit and ginger ice cream served with the 2002 Chateau Doisy Daene (Sauternes). For me, the glass of sauternes would have been plenty to cap off this meal.

Espresso was served with a tray containing a chocolate/almond tuile, an intense dark chocolate/espresso truffle log covered in cocoa, and a dark chocolate macaroon.

The service was attentive, although more American in style (faster) than you would typically expect from a Michelin starred restaurant. The restaurant is much more lively than in its prior life with hard floors and no tablecloths. There are loads of french people, of all ages, in attendance. The dress code remains upscale.

All in all, it was a lovely experience and I will definitely return. Three courses, with wines and aperitifs, were under 250 Euros for two people.

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