Got back from Paris last week and I have the following to report - I apologize for the brevity.
1) Cave de L'Os a Moëlle lives up to its reputation. This is where I took the young lady for our send-off dinner, and we both completely enjoyed it. The restaurant is "family-style"; this means you sit with six other diners and pass the wonderful pots of pate, fish, other things, etc., around and converse in broken French about current events and life as an American. There are two seatings: one at 7:30 and one at 9:30. You are "expected" to be finished by 9:30 if you book the 7:30 seating, so I would advise the later of the two. The restaurant has a wine section in the front where you select your bottle yourself... The total for both of us - all you can eat! - was 50e, including the wine.
2) La Bague de Kenza is worth a stop for the pastries! Just drooling over them while picking which ones you want is half the fun. We made the educated decision to bring a box of them to a dinner party we were invited to, and the host was delighted.
3) The Hemingway Bar at the Ritz may not be for everyone, but I loved it (think Harry's Bar in Venice, but darker). My martini - what else would you order? - was excellent, as it should have been for 23e. You come for the atmosphere and to have a cigarette, to glance slowly aorund the room and realize what it was like to live in a more elegant era.
Reims Champagne tasting
1) Tattinger was a nice tour and the tasting room at the end was decent. You were only allowed to taste one type of champagne at the end, and everyone milled around in a large room while doing so.
2) Pommery's tour was the most informative. Also, the caves are filled with art, which made for an interesting diversion from the countless musty bottles. The tasting at the end was also limited to one type of champagne, and was conducted in a huge warehouse-like room, which, for a warehouse-like room, was decidedly homey.
3) Piper-Heidsieck was the most fun tour - you sat on a little electric cart like an Epcot ride. Also, at the end of this tour the tasting was the most refined: your champagne (five flutes for the two of us) was waiting for you when you arrived in a plush room of soft couches and soft lighting.
Ok, back to reading about closely-held corporations so I can pass my exams....