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Paris report - Aux Lyonnais

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Paris report - Aux Lyonnais

Bill Strzempek | Nov 21, 2005 01:57 PM

AUX LYONNAIS
32, rue St. Marc
Metro Richelieu-Drouot, 2e
01 42 96 65 04

Everyone knows this place by now, the quick good news is that the historic and gorgeous setting is still an eyeful and Aux Lyonnais still hits all the high marks. No complaints here, total contentedness. Contentment? Whatever. We had bottles of beaujolais AND Gigondas, pastis and cognac, who can dither over language? (Or this food one might add.) A full-fledged good time with friends and unfailing cuisine is just what was expected and just what Aux Lyonnais served up. Highlights on the menu remain the starter of “oeufs cocotte en crème”, as homey and comforting as being tucked in bed while playing hooky. The other iconic starter, “pot de la cuisiniere Lyonnaise,” still satisfies too, especially when slathered on that terrific country bread that is in a wire basket strapped to the side of the table as if they were emergency rations. But the unparalleled top choice of this dinner is the magic billed as the “quenelle de brochet et ecrevisses,” which is a fish-tinged cloud that has been somehow coaxed to the plate and is a truly superlative sensation with such fluffiness and complexity of flavors. There are lots of other temptations on the menu, go with friends who can order the lamb, the pork, the fish, taste theirs and keep the quenelles to yourself. Service was terrific, being both omnipresent and genial.

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