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Restaurants & Bars 7

Papa George's Just Beef - French Fried Excellence

Seth Zurer | Oct 15, 200302:16 PM

I made a first visit to the recently opened Papa George's Just Beef. Papa George took over the space that was oh so briefly occupied by Yambo Nicaraguan Cafe and Mary's Place before that. If my meal today is any indication, this spot may survive the apparent curse on this location. Papa George claims to grind his own hamburger meat, and cook and slice his own beef.

I had a dry combo with sweet and hot peppers. It was good, but not great. Beef was tender and fatty, with a distinct roast beefiness, and a great ribbon of fat along the edge. The sausage was undistinguished -- i liek a more chunky texture, and it didn't seem like it had been grilled to order, plus the filler needed salt or hot pepper or something. You know - Umph. So - it's not perfect, but a very good sandwich. The other sandwiches looked more promising, 1/4 lb and 1/2 lb slabs of bright red ground beef grilled to order over coals (i think). Plus the usual array of vienna beef sausages, though I didn't ask if they had natural casings on the hotdogs.

The thing that really set this place apart from the crowd were the fries: hand cut 1/4 inch sticks with skin still on, deepfried at least twice to crispy hot greasy salty perfection. On a par with the frites at Hopleaf. THese were significantly better than the standard issue fries at Hot Dougs, which I think have a certain cottony texture. They were fabulous. I was tempted to get a second order on the spot, but thought i ought to wait till I was not actually already full.

Anyways. Go there. It's good. I even saw someone try out Dave Hammond's "I'm the fan who swatted moises's glove" trick to general hilarity.

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