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11 Places

Restaurants & Bars

Oaxaca trip report!

indiefoodie | Dec 4, 201808:53 AM     1

Thank you all for helping me plan a delicious trip to Oaxaca! Here are some of the places we tried:

Restaurante Catedral: I had read a lot about their Sunday brunch but that wasn't an option for me since I was leaving early on Sunday. So, I thought I'd give their dinner a shot. It was my 2nd least favorite meal in Oaxaca. I'm no mole expert but after trying them at some of the other places I went to, I realized they did a terrible job. We tried 3 of them and all of them were bad. I'm surprised that there seems to be such a big difference in the quality of their Sunday brunch and a regular dinner.

Mercado 20 de Noviembre: The star here is Pasillo de Humo. I went here twice. It's such an experience! Buy some veggies, buy some chapulines if you'd like some crunch, decide on your vendor, choose your meats (we went with cecina, tasajo and chorizo both times), grab a seat, order some sides, maybe a beer and wait for smoky, grilled deliciousness! I felt this place was as much about the taste and flavor as about this whole process. A unique experience that's a must try IMO.

Lechoncito de Oro: This was part one of a late night meal. I thought the tacos were pretty ordinary. Not bad but I wouldn't go out of my way to try this.

Tlayudas Doña Martha: Part two after Lechoncito de Oro. There's another tlayuda stall right next to this one that we also tried. Both, my friend and I actually preferred the flavors of the place next to Doña Martha. Doña Martha wasn't bad but we felt the other place was better.

Las Quince Letras: I went here twice, once for breakfast and once for lunch. The first time, we tried 6 moles - 2 of the 3 mole samplers. We really liked the mole negro and the coloradito. The other more mild ones, not so much. I liked those so much that I went back and got the coloradito a 2nd time. Highly recommend for these two moles at least. Tried a café de olla which I thought was just was OK.

zandunga: Another late night meal. Probably my least favorite meal in Oaxaca. I thought the empanadas were fine. Everything else I thought was not up to the mark.

Fonda Florecita: Tried the mole coloradito with the enchiladas. Also, a café de olla. The coffee was not very good but I really enjoyed the enchiladas. I would recommend checking it out.

Itanoní: Tried a bunch of things. Liked almost everything but nothing wowed me like some of the dishes at La Teca and Las Quince Letras.

La Teca: We got the tasting menu. I liked everything till they brought out the moles. This was a little weird but both, my friend and I thought that their mole negro was phenomenal but the others were not in the same league. Not sure if that's true in general there or if we just managed to go during an off night. In any case, the mole negro and all the other stuff was pretty good so I would recommend checking this out.

Mezcalería In Situ: Probably my favorite of all the mezcal bars I tried. The staff was super nice, patient and did a great job introducing us to some of the different varieties of mezcal produced in the region. We went back twice and I also bought a couple of bottles to being back. Highly recommend.

La Mezcaloteca: I had read a lot about this and was really looking forward to it. The set up I thought was pretty cool - reservations are strictly enforced (I saw a few people being turned away who did not have reservations) and there's a lot of information provided about the mezcales one tries. They encourage you to try multiple things so my friend and I were given different mezcales and we sipped on both. However, after 3 rounds (so, after trying 6 mezcales total), the lady who was helping us, just asked us what else did we want to try. I guess for someone who's more experienced than us at mezcales, this would have worked but we felt that for a session that's supposed to help one expand their knowledge about the various kinds of mezcales, this strategy was flawed. The only thing we could do was tell them our flavor preferences or the specific agaves we liked at Mezcalería In Situ. I personally would have preferred if there was some way that we could have tried things we hadn't in the past.

Mezcalogia: Another mezcal bar we tried. Probably my least favorite in terms of the quality of the mezcales I tried (but that might just be what I decided to get). Cool spot though with live music.

Santisima Flor de Lupulo: Tried a few beers here. Pretty good. The service was also very good. At one point, they moved us from a table for 4 to the bar to make space for a larger group of people and then gave us a snack on the house for that. Moved tables plenty of times in different cities in the U.S. but have never experienced this :)

Cafébre: Like Mexico City, I liked the coffee I tried in Oaxaca. I think I got a Chemex here which I thought was good. We also tried a Chocolate de agua which was good.

Restaurante Catedral
Lechoncito de Oro
Libres Tlayudas Doña Martha
Las Quince Letras
Fonda Florecita
Itanoni, tortilleria y antojeria
La Teca
La Mezcaloteca
La Santisima Flor de Lupulo
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