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North End Regina's: The Contrarian View


Restaurants & Bars 36

North End Regina's: The Contrarian View

Luther | Feb 21, 2007 02:58 AM

I braved the icy sidewalks last Saturday to get a margarita pie at Regina. It had been a couple years since I'd last been, so I figured it was time for a re-evaluation. Waitresses were curt bordering on surly. Kids were screaming unrestrainedly. Soda was $1.35 for a little cup, and the lines were hella dirty. Diet coke tasted like orange-sprite-diet-rootbeer. On to the pizza...

I can tell that this pizza is made with some care, which can't be said for plenty of pizza in this town. It's made in a straightforward Italian style, with no infringing Greek elements, which can't be said for plenty of pizza in this town. Really, aside from that, this pizza is a glorified slice-joint pizza.

The crust is far too bready for a proper pizza. The floor of the oven isn't hot enough- they let the crust get dry and crunchy, basically overcooking the pizza, but it never gets a proper blistering on the bottom, just an even browning. The crust is on the thick side and dusted with quite a bit of flour, and it saps the moisture from my mouth. The sauce is a very respectable tomato puree, but the cheese lacks a fresh flavor. A margarita especially should make use of a cheese with a high grease and moisture content. The overall experience is on the dry side. The crust has a robust flavor, but it's more of a yeasty/bready flavor than a soulful pizza sourdough type flavor.

This pizza is simply not worth $16. I would say, more like $12. You can get an equally competent pizza at T. Anthony, Presto, or sometimes Pino's for $9-10ish. T. Anthony is the crust flavor champion, and they use a properly wet cheese, but their sauce is oversweetened and overspiced. Presto has the best-textured crust, but it lacks flavor. Pino's is a little unusual and inconsistent, but when it's good, it's the type of unique pizza you can be proud exists in your hometown.


Also, I got a slice at Bostone the other day. I definitely dig the atmosphere in there. $2.65 with tax for a slice that's 1/4 of a pizza is a good deal. I'd say it's an average NY-style slice: decent cheese, bready-soft-crispy crust with insufficient gluten extension, waaaaay overseasoned sauce. Especially in the center of the pie, there's far too much use of the dry spices. The dude at the register seemed to be trying real hard to make everyone happy, even though there were a couple of order confusions while I was there.

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