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Restaurants & Bars 11

Noriega Street Chow

Melanie Wong | Dec 4, 200401:34 AM

On Wednesday Mom had me stop at Café Bakery on Noriega to pick up two dozen baked pork buns on our way out of town. These have become a household staple for her with a ready supply in the freezer to be replenished when they run out.


We then headed further out to Cheung Hing to window shop the roast meats. This was her first time here. I let her pick the duck so that I couldn’t be blamed if it had too many pin feathers. (g) While the char siu didn’t looked so good to her, she also bought a nice piece of the roast pig, cut from the rib. I took note that the counter man didn’t toss an extra piece of fat onto the scale. Placing her small empty jar on the counter, she asked for some of the duck jus. At first he refused, but she stood her ground and chided him that she had bought a whole duck and a big piece of roast pork. He relented and filled the jar part way with about 6 ounces worth of the precious liquid.


Later that night at home, she commented that this was a smaller roast duck for a higher price than our usual from New Moon in Chinatown. The skin was roasted quite dark this time. In fact the ends of the drumsticks were burnt black and there were just a few small pin feathers. Yet the skin retained a papery crackle many hours later and was more evenly colored and better rendered than my previous experience here. Even so, the flesh was so juicy and succulent with taste. Mom thought both the duck and the roast pig were saltier and less sweet than New Moon’s style, and as good, just different. Now Cheung Hing is 2 for 3 with me, and I understand why the Noriega branch has so many fans.

I had tried to lure my parents into Ming Tai for some won tons for lunch, but they were anxious to get back on the road home. We did a quick peek into H&N Dim Sum and Mongkok but didn’t see anything that looked up to par for a snack. So, we noshed on the warm pork buns for the drive.

Nothing really new here this time, but I would be interested in hearing what else in the vicinity for the next time we’re in the neighborhood. Any good bakeries, dim sum, or take-out places for a quick snack on the run?


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