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NoMi: fusion to a fault?

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Restaurants & Bars

NoMi: fusion to a fault?

AJ Fugh-Berman | Jan 13, 2002 07:29 PM

Does NoMi always serve bad food? The "foie gras" (faux gras? fox grease?) was a circular slice of cold,greasy, flavorless pate, and a guinea hen dish draped a piece of dry poultry (indistinguishable from convention chicken in appearance and taste) over a passable sauce that coated overcooked leeks and dessicated chestnuts. There were shards of what could have been truffle on the chicken, but given the taste it was probably stray wood ash. The guinea hen wasn't as bad as the pumpkin risotto, though. OK, it sounded like a bad idea;if you wanted to avoid anything that looked like a bad idea on the menu you'd have to leave. "What are these weird chewy mushrooms in the risotto?" asked my partner. They were purportedly escargot, but since the taste and consistency rivaled a rubber-band, he can be forgiven the error. Expensive and awful. Any other takes?

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