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Restaurants & Bars 6

Mindbending tlayuda truck - Lincoln south of Venice

Low End Theory | Nov 20, 200310:10 PM

Dear Chowhounds,

Trolling the night for taco trucks I spotted "La Oaxaquena" on Lincoln Blvd at Flower, south of Rose. Small Latino crowd, sidewalk seating, the Oaxacan specialty memelas and tlayudas and antojitos regionales - mostly baked desserts - in addition to tortas, tacos and "burros" with the real truck meats such as cabeza, tripas and lengua. Mexican cane sugar Cokes and Jarritos.

For the uninitiated, the tlayuda/clayuda ($5) is a giant, hubcap-sized tortilla smeared with pasta frijol (bean paste), aciento (pork fat), sprinkled with cabbage and fresh queso, and topped with a whole piece of carne del guste - usu. the pounded pork cecina or dried beef tasajo. Super stringy quesillo is $1 and recommended. Starting as a novice, I've worked my way up the tlayuda ladder, starting at Juquila and Montealban, moving up through Guelaguetza Palms and Koreatown and reaching the tremendous version at El Sazon Oaxaqueno, but this one could be the reigning champ. It doesn't have the added trimmings e.g. guacamole of El Sazon's clayuda, but the tortilla is an exemplar of thin, crispy contrast to the unctuous aciento and pasta frijol. Good salsa picante on top and tasty, almost-tender tasajo to rend with one's fingers (they were out of cecina at 10:30pm).

Tortas - add quesillo! - and the inevitable tacos were also popular with my fellow clientele, who seemed to start with the smaller items and work their way up to the tlayuda. Does anyone know of other trucks around these parts, especially those w/mariscos? I will continue to report my adventures.

Happy eating,

Low End Theory

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