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Restaurants & Bars 1

Maverick in SF (short report)

Tony | Feb 19, 200601:51 PM

Maverick in San Francisco is a place worth checking out, in my opinion. It's in the space on 17th Street between Valencia and Mission that used to be Limon.

It was slow this past Friday lunch when I was there with a friend, so I got a chance to chat with Mike, the owner/manager (he told me dinners and weekend brunch are quite a bit busier).

I had a Hoagie sandwich, and my friend had the fish and chips. The batter on the fish, which I tried, was unbelievably light and almost airy, but also very flavorful. It had a nice savory/nutty taste, and the fish (whatever it was, I forgot to ask) was perfectly cooked.

They seem to use very good, fresh bread for their sandwiches. I'm an L.A. native, so I can't comment on Hoagies from any breadth of experience, but it was a nice hunk of sandwich, filled with delicious, meaty cold cuts. It was great with the carignane/grenache blend I was drinking from Sutton Cellars (the wine list is short but very strong, so it's not a stretch for Mike to refer to the place, however casually, as a 'wine bar'). I think my friend had a glass of sparkling wine or champagne with the fish and chips. Each plate was about nine or ten bucks.

The housemade potato chips are excellent and must be as addictive as any of the contraband that still figures into the surrounding neighborhood's economy.

For the art lovers, the visual centerpiece of the small front room is a cool piece of art: a map of the U.S. that is actually several maps, divide up into thickly framed sections. The overall motif is medium-dark wood tables and walls, but the space has a ton of light pouring in from the front windows, which are celing-to-floor, if memory serves.

I'd comment on the stylish crowd, too, but I'll stop here before I begin to sound like a pretentious Chronicle food critic.

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