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Boston Area

Masa back in my rotation


Restaurants & Bars 6

Masa back in my rotation

MC Slim JB | Dec 19, 2006 02:24 PM

I haven't much liked Masa for a good long while now, thinking its dollar tapas menu in the bar was okay but mostly that its take on Southwestern food was lame and absurdly overpriced. We only recently heard about a months-ago chef change and so gave it another shot last week. Short version: better prices, a largely revamped menu, and much improved food.

An amuse of "crab salsa" on little toast rounds. Good bread and cornbread with three interesting spreads: molasses butter, a cumin-heavy bean spread, and a corn relish with cotija. Excellent sides, like a pile of four giant onion rings with a good spicy mayo-like dip, and smoky pinto beans. Stuffed chicken ($20, tasting like real chicken) and Southwestern steak frites ($23, properly sliced on the bias) were also very, very good, with excellent accompaniments: strong chili-dusted frites, lovely red pepper and cheese sopes. Hefty portions, good service. Even the "cowboy" steaks have fallen from a high of $34 to $29 (still by far the priciest items on the menu).

A much-expanded list of tequilas, probably one of the better ones in town. Wines by the glass a little pricey. It still won't wow anyone who's had fine-dining Southwestern in the actual Southwest, but a pleasant surprise; we'll certainly be going back.

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