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Robert Lauriston | Jan 12, 200511:52 AM    

Got out of a movie shortly before 9 last night and Dopo looked like a 45-minute wait in the cold, so we tried Luka's Taproom.

The food was all great: house salad with radish and egg, fabulous dish of chanterelles and lentils (I'm pretty sure it was enriched with demi), beet salad, mussels with cream and bacon, Belgian-style fries with several good dips.

Tap beer was hit and miss. Chimay and Lagunitas IPA were their usual delicious selves. Ommegang witte, which I hadn't tried before, had the same nasty flavor as the bottled "abbey" Ommegang I tried before, so I don't think it was Luka's fault. Urquell was off, either the bottom of the keg or improper storage or both.

Service was also hit and miss. Like most bars where orders go through a computer, there was a fairly long lag between ordering and getting drinks. The kitchen was clearly uncoordinated--I saw our mussels go up on the pass, our server went to pick them up and had to to make the beet salad. Luckily the plate was hot, so the mussels weren't cold when they finally arrived a couple of minutes later. But our fries were still MIA. I'm not sure any of that was our server's fault.

So maybe not the right place when you're impatient or if imperfect service makes you cranky.

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