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Lucas Carton Revisited--thanks to mdibiaso

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Lucas Carton Revisited--thanks to mdibiaso

Lori McLaughlin | Dec 4, 2002 10:41 AM

We just returned from another visit to Lucas Carton. Although I seriously considered a visit to another food temple in Paris, mdibiaso's lastest post on Lucas Carton swayed the decision. This was our third visit--the first being one of the best dinners I've enjoyed and the last--well, being not quite up to the same level.

However, dinner Monday evening was beyond words. The subtle signs of new life are evident. Starting with the two courses of amuse bouche: bouillon with chicken and flavored with lemon grass and followed by scallop ravioli also hinting of lemon grass.

Our appetizers included the Brittany lobster with polenta flavored with ginger, lemon, and basil and the Chicken Ravioli with white Alba truffles. The lobster was paired with a 2000 Coteau de Vernon Condrieu Domaine Vernay. The one hiccup was that the sommelier inadvertently served us the 1990 Corton Charlemagne from Domaine Bonneau du Martray. Quickly correcting this, we were presented with both wines to compare and contrast with the lobster. (Although the Condrieu paired well, I prefered the Corton Charlemagne with its hint of butter on the finish.) The Ravioli with truffles was paired with vintage Dom Perignon. The truffles were outstanding, yet they were subtle and didn't overpower the dish--very harmonious.

The main courses included the famous Lobster with vanilla sauce paired with the 1999 Meursault from Domaine des Comtes Lafon and the wild duck with a relish of leeks, mangoes and ginger in old sherry. The duck was paired with a 1991 Chateau Palmer--I was a little leary of the pairing, but the Palmer was singing and very fruity picking up the strains of the mango and ginger. Wonderful!

Desserts included the "La Samana"--chocolate cream using Samana cocoa beans from Santa Domingo. Deep dark rich served with Fonseca 20 year port. But I preferred the sliced mango served over a warm (no hot!)carmelized mango, garnished with a lime and passion fruit cream. This was utterly amazing!! and served with a 1997 late harvest gewurtztraminer from Domain Trimbach in Alsace.

All in all--this meal rated right up there with some of our favorite French meals at M. Guerard and M. Veyrat. Bravo!

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