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Laboratorio: Most Outrageous Wine Markup In D. C.

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Laboratorio: Most Outrageous Wine Markup In D. C.

Joe | Feb 13, 2002 12:02 AM

$900.00 for '97 Solaia. This was voted wine of the year by the Wine Spectator and, if you can find it, sells for about $200 to 250 now in a store. On winecommune.com it can be purchased for $225.00 at auction. In Italy when it was first released it sold for 120,000 to 150,000 lira then, after the Spectator feature it all but disappeared from stores but still showed up in restaurants where it ranged from 160,000 to 230,000 lira. I have seen it on other restaurant menus over the past two months with the prices ranging from $350 to $500, which I thought was extraordinary.

But $900.00?

In this restaurant's defense I thought the prix fixe of $110 for Saturday night and less for other nights to be more than reasonable for the eight course meal. My wife and I thought that the meal, overall, was excellent with several (but not all) courses outstanding. A version of tuna carpaccio was absolutely sublime. Truly a great dish. Duck breast and venison treatments were actually disappointing.

Overall we may prefer Obelisk. Maestro we'll visit in the next month or so.

I should add that when a meal for two is over $300 the standard I use is different than a meal for $150. I continue to believe that in this league Citronelle is still the best D. C. has to offer.

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