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La Gitana Lonchera | Calistoga - Napa Valley

Melanie Wong | Apr 16, 201602:11 PM

Driving home from a getaway weekend at a villa in Calistoga, I spotted La Gitana taco truck parked in the lot next to the market on the corner of Tubbs Lane and Hwy 128.

Needing a lunch bite, I pulled over to check it out. At lunch hour, it had a line of customers waiting to order and others seated in the shade at the tables.

The menu offered the standards . . . but also Alambre, one of my favorites at Oakland's dearly departed El Ojo de Agua truck.

Unfortunately, the Alambre was not so good. The cheese was not melted, missing the whole point of stringy cheese "wires" binding together the cured meats, beef and peppers. The second taco of carnitas was on the dry side. The tortillas were not sweated properly and seemed papery and dried out. The red salsa was so generic. It did earn some points for the soft and sweet cebollas and grilled jalapeño.

Still, I imagine that there are times when this kind of fare can provide relief from the usual Napa Valley offerings.

The most rewarding part of this stop was this vantage point on this artful display of old trucks and tractors, including an Edsel, at the adjoining salvage yard.

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