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Do LA diners really like noise?

josephnl | Jan 11, 201510:43 PM

We had dinner the other evening at what is likely LA's hottest restaurant, Bestia. Reservations are almost impossible to snag. The bar is typically jammed with folks waiting to grab a seat at the bar or at one of the counter spots. The food and service are both excellent...but the noise is unbelievable. What I can't quite understand is that the noise seems not simply due to the fact that the restaurant is busy and the crowd is exuberant. The noise is clearly intentional and seems to be what the management wants. Several nights ago we happened to be seated adjacent to the kitchen. Keep in mind that the restaurant design is such that with all hard surfaces the noise created by the crowd and the very loud music seems amplified. What we absolutely could not believe was the fact that then entire kitchen staff were very obviously and intentionally increasing the overall noise level by constantly yelling and shouting. This was not the typical and often necessary loud communication between kitchen staff. We were close enough to hear that they were definitely not just communicating orders. This was obviously gratuitous noise that had to be intended to create "a buzz". It was very clearly purposeless and intentional, and at least to us, was pretty obnoxious. Where we were seated very close to the kitchen, normal conversation (or even communication with our server) was very difficult. Folks are clearly going here for the terrific food and the place is always packed. Do they really like the noise, or is it something that attracts some folks, and others just put up with it?

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