Restaurants & Bars

Kinkead's report

Jim Zurer | Jul 6, 2002 08:21 PM

We had a family celebration at Kinkead's last night and it was successful as usual. The five us enjoyed our appetizers very much--the superlative fried clams for the table, a goat cheese and tomato salad, a sesame tempura soft shell crab, the duet of salmon from the raw bar menu, and a caesar salad. The standout was a new appetizer--warm artichoke, Virginia ham and St. Andre cheese was out of sight.

Four of the five main courses were excellent....the pepita crusted salmon, the cod with crab imperial, the basil crusted halibut (outstanding), and the seared sea scallops with fennel tarte tatin and bacon (Kinkead's has a way with scallops). One disappointment was my sauteed flounder with mussels, and a saffron tomato cream (a new item on the menu)--the flounder was slightly overcooked and the cream sauce overwhelmed the fish.

We had our usual Roederer brut sparkling wine to toast the occasion and a wine from the Campo dei Flegrei (Cuma) in Campania with dinner. The first bottle was slightly maderized and replaced with no problem; the second bottle was sound and interesting--a very strong undertaste and dry--but nothing I would try again.

Desserts were a big hit...the trio of creme brulee (chocolate malt, apricot and vanilla) was dependably delicious, the baked alaska was very good, and the chocolate and caramel sampler was appreciated by all.

I have to note that we are known and receive very special treatment at Kinkead's...when I mentioned that I was less that thrilled with my entree (after I finished), they insisted on comping my dessert. But we enjoyed our only other complaint is the cost--$75 a person--which keeps us from going as much as we might like.

Jim Zurer
Washington DC

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