John Kessler (of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution) was in the Twin Cities recently for the Association of Food Journalists' annual conference and wrote this piece on how the Twin Cities dining scene compares with Atlanta’s.
~Was impressed by the eating local scene here “golly, these folks mean it”, declaring Lenny Russo’s (Heartland) charcuterie to be the highlight.
~Admired our “culture of pastry.”
~Remarked that Twin Cities' fine dining has “hit the skids” and declared his one, albeit ambitious, meal at La Belle Vie to be “meh” to “meh-plus.”
~Admired the personality of our fine dining chefs who “play by their own rules” and “revel in ideas and dishes that no one else would think of copying,” citing Stephen Trojahn’s (Cosmos) local duck with smoked mustard spaetzle and slivers of pickled cherry and caviar service as examples.