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Kachka Happy Hour | Buckman - SE Portland

Melanie Wong | Oct 1, 201801:41 PM

After Coco Donuts and final packing back at the house, we squeezed in one more happy hour before leaving town, the ritual that Portland does so well. My fondness for happy hour is starting to remind me of how my parents felt about early bird specials back in their day. Guess I'm approaching the fullness of my years. Kachka has been on my radar since reading this bittersweet piece about pelmeni as a cure for heartbreak that my friend Scott Hocker penned,

Kachka offers happy hour in the lounge area daily from 4pm to 6pm.

Struck out on ordering the caviar, apparently no delivery was made that Monday We turned to the regular dinner menu to order one of the cured fish boards, the smoked black cod. The breads were wonderful, loved the decadently rich cultured housemade butter with the fresh dill and snipped chives, and the fish faintly touched with smoke and still very oily/moist was ultra rich too.

The $6 Laika cocktail of house-infused tarragon vodka with grapefruit and lime offered plenty of crafty-ness on a budget. Refreshing and not overly sweet, the herbal tones paired well with the food.

Fresh, handmade Siberian pelmeni, $9 + $2, filled with beef, pork veal and onion in a meaty, from scratch "fancy" broth enriched with a dollop of sour cream redefined these dumplings for me. I suspect that I'll never be happy again with the frozen ones served in San Francisco's restaurants. Our server said Kachka has two cooks full-time rolling and cutting these dumplings.

A new addition to the happy hour menu is the $12.95 combo meal. We adored the housechurned butter and breads, pickled garlic scapes, half sour pickles, a lilting and rejuvenating garlic kefir-based okroshka cold soup with dice of potatoes, watermelon radishes, fresh green herbs and pork belly, the transcendent golubtsi stuffed cabbage with fruit and meat in an intense sweet-sour tomato sauce, and a nonsweetened summer fruit kompot.

Everything was delectable and the casual country inn vibe and lace curtains added to the atmosphere. Service was friendly and the food certainly comforted. Extra heavy butterfat smetana might be the secret.

960 SE 11th Ave
Portland, Oregon

Recently Kachinka opened a short distance away as a casual sister restaurant offering happy hour favorites throughout the evening.

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