one of the wonderful things about being in london is getting the london review every weekend - (you can subscribe online, too - and in my humble opinion, its miles more interesting than the nyt book review).
anyway, one of the editors is john lanchester; he's written a couple of books, one of which is the 'debt to pleasure'. it wheels all over the place, but its united around eating and recipes - very, very well done.
slim, easily digestible, and full of erudition that i suspect is occasionaly faked a la jorge luis borges (but i could be wrong, it could all well be true). i'd recommend it for chowhounds home page.