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Restaurants & Bars

Two Japanese places, London

limster | Mar 20, 2008 04:50 PM

• Ramen Seto, Soho
An ok chashu ramen. The noodles still have a faint elasticity but it's nowhere as satisfying as serious artisan versions. Lots of chashu, nicely meaty with little trim of fat but could have a shade more of that honeyed flavour. The broth is basic, and on the thin side, barely a trace of porky grease that prominently bubble in superior versions. Accompanied by bean sprouts, snap peas and pickled bamboo shoots. Ask for the sansho powder to give the broth a bit of needed liveliness. Will do in a pinch but not great.

• Sakura, Mayfair
A fine miso soup. A basic bowl of rice with basic pieces of tempura under a blanket of egg (I did like the fact that the egg wasn't fully cooked). Beneath was a mirin sweetened sauce with onions. Bitter pickled green vegetables. Authentic but very ordinary.

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