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Il Mulino: are you kidding?


Restaurants & Bars 5

Il Mulino: are you kidding?

Eliot Shepard | Dec 8, 2000 01:12 PM

Went to Il Mulino for the company holiday dinner last night.

The room has the feel of a tightly packed dentist's office, complete with cheesy wallpaper and a drop ceiling.

The "freebie" courses were unexceptional, with the exception of the Parmegiano and salami -- the kitchen couldn't do much to ruin those. The fresh bread was unexceptional, very bleached stuff, and the fried was rock-hard and greasy.

I tried the mushroom caps stuffed with escargot. The snails tasted like dirt, and not in a good way. Also had a bite of the tomato and mozzarella antipasto. Tomatoes average and cheese was, to me, a watery mush with very little flavor.

The porcini mushroom filled ravioli were adequate, though the sauce was needlessly heavy and heavy on the marsala for my liking. For a secondo, I had the Scallopine alla Romana, which was an oily, soggy mush. The veal had the consistency of stew beef.

Nothing on the table (in a party of 8) displayed any subtlety or originality of flavor. Salt, oil, garlic, capers was more or less the extent of it. It completely escapes me how this place rates as anything near the city's best Italian. I've had better food with less fuss at Aunt Suzie's, for about a quarter the price. For the same money at Babbo, I've enjoyed flavors of mythical proportions, and I didn't leave feeling like a whale in an ocean of olive oil, producing chunks of garlic-infused ambergris.

I didn't get a look at the bill, but it warn't cheap!

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