I'm still over here, but thought I'd share what's going on over here.
Joy Hing Wanchai - glorious cha siu. Even though Bourdain gave this place an international boost on Layover, the place still has a very local feel to it. I ordered a cha siu entree, and specified half lean half fatty and it was super decadent. The marinade and overall flavor is heavily slanted on sweet. $56 a plate, and they gave me free house soup (watercress with pork bone and carrots). Wish I had room to try abalone sauce chicken feet and curry beef brisket side dishes.
Lan Fong Yuen - major tourist trap. Birthplace of HK milk tea but there is no passion or soul remaining. They cater more towards Mainland Chinese tourists these days. When I requested one cup of hot milk tea, the waiter took out a plaque from the side and slapped it in front of me. I read it and it said $20 min order, the tea was $16. Dude was too lazy to even say, "pardon me but there is a min order". Rude as f****k.
Shui Kee - this food court is in Sheung Wan market cooked food center, in a corner. The business owner/chef has been there for 30 years I think and is easily 80 years old. His signature is cold milk tea in Schwepps glass bottle. Super glorious and the best cold milk tea I had.
Kam Fung - HK cafe in old part of Wanchai. Great chicken pie, tho sadly when I went in the AM they gave me a fairly cold one. When hot out of the oven these cannot be beat. Great hot milk tea and even better cold (iceless) one. The iceless cold version at the chain known as Tai Hing is not bad, but don't drink too much of this, might cause upset stomach.
Sun King Yuen, not too far away from Kam Fung, is excellent for HK style curry fried pork chop.
Ishiyama izakaya in Causeway Bay, is a true gem. Lots of JP expats, and excellent nimono dishes. Ankimo was even better than Sushi Ta-Ke, and sea snail (cold dish but stewed till tender) is unbeatable.
Wing Wah (Wanchai) - excellent springy toothy egg noodles (made by bamboo pole). Did not like the shrimp roe lo mein bamboo pole noodles at Lau Sham Kee...almost choked as it was way too dry. Lau Sam Kee's broth was nice for shui gow (dumplings), but seemed a tad MSG strong. Wing Wah's beef brisket noodles is really amazing. $34 for a small bowl and I finished it all. Those who are hungry might need to get two bowls. Still need to make my way to Mak An Kee on Wing Kut St... Lau Sham Kee the day I went had a long line, and slow. Wai Kee pork liver noodles down the street had lines but they moved fast. Good HK style coffee there, and the pork liver soup is interesting, but not something I want to eat again.
Kung Wor bean curd shop in Sham Shui Po - go go go. Too bad it's not foreign tourist friendly, but you can always point I suppose. Soymilk is great, as well as tofu custard, and pan fried stuffed tofu. Brings me back great memories of those traditional tofu shops, not many remaining...
Ho Hung Kee (Causeway Bay) - they opened a new location in Hysan Place. Only had wonton noodles. Presentation wise, excellent, but best part of the bowl was the shrimp roe heavy broth...very sweet and delicious. Wontons were ok, and noodles paled in comparison to Wing Wah.
Had some amazing fresh seafood at Ap Lei Chau last week, and going again tomorrow. Basically go downstairs to the market, pick out what's in season and alive, bring it upstairs to the food court and have the dai pai dong guys take care of the rest. They charge very reasonable cooking fee, and it is a feast of epic proportions. Unfortunately this is not a tourist friendly place.
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