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Restaurants & Bars

Hangtown Fry @ Mabel's Just for You (SF Dogpatch)

Melanie Wong | May 30, 200504:37 AM    

On Tuesday I took my parents to Just for You at lunchtime to try the Hangtown fry. My dad loves oysters. He has been asking for this dish for months and he's finally well enough to eat out more often. We had one of the outdoor tables, which was a great spot on this warm and sunny day.

Mom and Dad shared an order of Hangtown Fry, choosing the biscuits over toast or corn muffin. The lightly breaded oysters were cooked just right and not overdone. These were scrambled with softened slices of yellow onion and tasty pieces of bacon. The eggs were cooked too hard and dry for my druthers, but overall, this was a fine version. My mother felt that for the $9.95 price, the two-oyster serving was too skimpy. "Homefries" was a misnomer for the anemic, undercooked, and flavorless chunks of red potatoes that came with the order and seemed like they'd never touched a grill or skillet. The biscuits were dry and stale, and my parents left them on the plate after one bite.

I had the creole crabcake sandwich with cole slaw. The crabcakes get a lot of raves here, but they're not to my taste. It's a stylistic thing -- the spicy seasonings, chunks of celery, heavy salting, and bread filler overwhelmed any crab character. With the very good housebaked bread and garnishes of lettuce, tomato and pickles, it did make a nice sandwich, but not one that I'd order again. The coleslaw, made with long thickish shreds of red and green cabbage was very good. Undersalted, it was a good foil for the highly seasoned crabcakes.

We shared one beignet. Overly wet inside and seemingly undercooked, it was a disappointment for my mother. Yet, it's the best one I've had locally.

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