As someone who grew up in Riverdale, I feel the need to second Eric Asimov's glowing review of Golden Gate, an old school Chinese restaurant in Riverdale.
Asimov gives his highest praise to a dish called lobster with burnt pork, which I've never had and thus can't comment on. But what I can say is that Golden Gate serves outstanding spare ribs. And they do a mighty fine job on old school American-style Chinese dishes. Plus, they are the type of neighborhood institution that should be supported, and it's a really pleasant place.
Kudos to Asimov for turning the Times' spotlight on a local treasure.