Restaurants & Bars 2

Global Kitchen

shadowfax | Dec 12, 201101:01 PM

The Global Kitchen in Brooklyn Center, on Shingle Creek just across from the library, is an odd little place. Mexican / African cuisine, and that doesn't mean fusion. It means they have a Mexican chef and an African chef working out of the same kitchen, each making half of the menu.

We went for the African side to try something new, but that didn't stop them from bringing us chips and salsa to munch on while we waited (odd, I thought, when they already knew we were going for the African food). The salsa was fine - good bit of cilantro in it, and more heat than a lot of Mexican places around here, but being from the Southwest, I'd have been happier with even more.

The food was pretty good - my fish was well-cooked with a crispy skin and the "house gravy" poured over (it's not like American-style gravy). The whole, gutted fish was there, head, fins and all, which delighted me but might put off more conservative diners. Couscous and very nicely grilled plantains completed the dish. The chili sauce that accompanied the dish was Hot. Your entire mouth including your lips will burn if you dab just the tips of the tines of your fork into it and then take a bite of food. I loved it, but it will be very much too hot for some people, especially here in the Midwest, but it's served on the side in its own little dish, so it can be avoided.

It should be noted that, at least in our case, the dishes on the African side of the menu will easily feed two. I've got a lot of fish and couscous sitting in my fridge for tonight. The Mexican dishes, from what I saw glancing at other tables, are sized more for 1.

Service was somewhat awkward, and the dishes arrived in the wrong order (first her entree, then my entree, then a few minutes later the appetizer, in a Styrofoam take-home container). The waiter, who was very friendly but seemed to be quite new, failed to give me a choice between the fish and the chicken for my dish, and the menu only said it was couscous and plantains, with no mention of any meat, so I was surprised when it arrived and I saw a fish looking up at me. Fortunately, I'd have gone with the fish anyway given a choice. For this visit, I'm chalking these stumbles off to growing pains - the place has only been open since late August, but the service and the awkward sending of dishes (my companion felt uncomfortable digging in to her dish while I waited for about 10 more minutes for mine) leads to the 3-star rating.

That said, it'll be worth trying again, though I'll give them a few months to get their feet under them before I do.

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