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Restaurants & Bars

Gaters Mediterranean Grill, Fremont

Caitlin McGrath | Sep 14, 200510:41 AM    

Gaters styles itself as "Mediterranean" and its menu lists "City Grill" and "California Grill" wraps, but it's a Middle Eastern place in disguise (trying to appeal to the Fremont masses, I guess).

The wraps are shwarma and doner, wrapped in thin griddled lavosh, and they're good. I haven't tried the beef doner (I don't eat it), but it is clearly layers of real meat, not the prefab mass, on the spit (there's no lamb here). The chicken version is good; the menu says ground chicken, but it's really small chunks. They're taken off the spit and griddled with hot sauce (if you like). The sauce packs a good hit of heat. There's a version with garlic spread, which is either a skordalia or a garlic/oil emulsion (no mayo) and is heavy on raw garlic flavor, good if you like that kind of thing (I recommend skipping the hot sauce on this one, as it overwhelms the garlic flavor). Falafel are pretty good - they're nicely spiced with a cumin accent. They become leaden if not eaten hot from the fryer, though. Dolma are decent, but hummus is thin and tastes commercial. There's a side order of spinach pie that I'm curious to try (but I'm not optimistic, as it seems almost impossible to find a decent one).

Gaters Mediterranean Grill
3846 Mowry Ave, in Fremont Plaza shopping center
Fremont 94538
510-494-9944

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