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Gabriela's--Unsurprisingly un-good

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Restaurants & Bars

Gabriela's--Unsurprisingly un-good

Denis | Jun 27, 2006 09:51 PM

Tried the new Gabriela's last night, since it's around the corner. The new one is on Columbus between 93rd and 94th. I didn't think much of the old one, and had low expectations for the new, despite the more welcoming digs and the crowds.

The basic margarita was fine, and my wife had a nice tamarind drink. The chips were OK, as were the red and green salsas that came with them. Nothing to write home about, but I ate them contentedly.

The queso fundido was oily and gloppy and didn't have anything to recommend it flavor-wise. It supposedly had chorizo but all I could find were a couple red dots which imparted nothing discernible to the dish.

The salmon with poblano sauce featured a not-great (but sizable) piece of fish and a brackish-looking, muddy-tasting sauce. I got red rice with supposedly (but not really) spicy beans on the side.

The beef enchiladas were blah. The refried beans that my wife got on the side, though, were fresh-tasting and only partly mashed up, resulting in a varied texture that was unusual and enjoyable.

Perhaps other things are better. The Peruvian-style chicken, which was a specialty of the old place, sailed by a couple times and smelled great. I'm nevertheless inclined to stick with Malecon for that kind of chicken, and with Noche Mexicana for Mexican, unless I hear something to persuade me otherwise.

Most interesting was the fact that in the middle of our meal some woman started yelling at the top of her lungs at the manager about the garbage that she said was blocking the sidewalk every morning. It was pretty impressive.

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