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Restaurants & Bars

Fu Zhou & Sun Luen; Chinatown, London

limster | Feb 9, 200806:19 AM     4

• Fu Zhou Restaurant

The Chinese menu listings i the front of the menu feature food from the northern part of the Fujian province; it's known as Hock Chew, Foochow, Fu2 Zhou1 or Min3 Bei3.

Very good rendition of classic Fuzhou style fishballs: tender, puffy ground fish on the outside, juicy minced pork stewed with dark soy sauce on the inside. A sheet on the wall indicates that they sell these for home cooks. A clear broth probably from simmered pork bones.

Stir fried mung bean vermicelli with seafood is ok, the quality of the ingredients could have been fresher, the stir-frying more deft, but it's not bad. Probably the first time I've seen this dish in the west. Perhaps NY transplants may have seen them in the numerous Fuzhou restaurants in Manhattan's chinatown.

Worth exploring the Fuzhou menu further. They've got obvious dishes like lychee pork(li4 zhi1 rou4) and chicken with red wine lees (hong2 zhao1 ji1).

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• Sun Luen
Makes their own dou4 hua1 aka tofu flower. It's good -- delicate and reasonably refined. The syrup has a hint of ginger in it.

Their egg tarts are also commendable. The crust isn't the flaky version, this one belongs to the cookie-like crumbly school of egg tarts. The custard is also lighter, unlike the dense yolky ones, but have flavour.

Both places on Little Newport Street.

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