Restaurants & Bars


Friends and enemies, there's yet another great find: Clandestino, an ephemeral resto in the 12th.


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Friends and enemies, there's yet another great find: Clandestino, an ephemeral resto in the 12th.

John Talbott | Oct 28, 2012 01:44 PM

Clandestino in the 12th: is “the best revelation of our (6-week) stay," my old food finder said Friday.
It's at 8 Rue Crozatier in the 12th,, Closed Sundays and Mondays (Metro: Reuillly:Diderot) it was a place on my “list” that I chose solely because it was close to the Gare de Lyon, where I was taking a train to Geneva from, on a dreaded-culinarywise Saturday.
The menu is 2-2-2 but 22 E (on a Saturday, mind you) but has nice offerings.
All four of us had the bonito tuna with blackberries, sliced Japanese radishes, and a rich red spicy sauce that the two chefs, one Japanese, the other French, explained was chopped, pureed, cooked, etc with lime and piment but looked all the world like a pomegranate sauce. It was really, really good and I cannot imagine the Japanese pumpkin soup with an egg could have been better, but we’ll never know.
For mains two of us chose the lamb, which my pal, knowing my inability to tolerate mutton, warned me off of, but no need, it was succulent baby lamb with potatoes; and two of us had the salmon-colored trout, sautéed and skin-crisped with an intriguing sautéed pistachio bit topping and broccoli that was al dente but had been marinated in a secret concoction that made it/them irresistible.
Finally, most of us had chocolate mousse described as “light,” which it surely was as well as really being a mocha mousse. The odd man out had a baked apple with ice cream; boring eh, not at all.
Our bill, with great bread, no bottled water and two bottles of Central Valley (Calif, USA) Cycles Gladiator Syrah and 4 coffees was 152 E, thus 76 E a couple.
I rated it 7.2/10.
Photos are at the usual place.
Enjoy! if today's JDD femina rave doesn't bring down the NYT/F&W/T&L curse.
Go? I’d agree with my friend of 51 years; it was a hellova meal for a hellova price and definitely on Colette’s schedule next month.

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