Restaurants & Bars


Frédéric Simonin


Restaurants & Bars 14

Frédéric Simonin

Laidback | Apr 21, 2010 06:41 AM

We visited this new place last week on its 5th day. It is quite attractive, contemporarily chic with tones of black and gray with a noise-deadening, chain link design carpet throughout and plush chairs and banquettes. The location is the previous "Bath" at the corner of Rues Bayen and Villebois-Mareuil in the 17th. M. Simenon has a Robuchon background evidenced by his onctuous purée among other things. There is a very affordable menu at lunch, but the more expensive carte had some things that called to us. One entrée simply titled "Les Legumes" was edible art; primo young vegetables, some raw, some marinated presented in a manner that in my eyes was unsurpassed, even by the famous "Gargouille" from Laguiole's master Bras. All of the products were of impeccable quality; butter, veal, beef, but no where were the producers flaunted; no mention of Desnoyer, Thibault, Bordier...a welcome oversight to me.

We had reserved the latest lunch time available hoping to thus have a chance to chat up the staff. However, there must be media coverage on the way because after service the chef was tied up with a professional photographer snapping away at him and even "Les Legumes".

The young maitre was more than happy to chat and told us that all week they had been feeding restaurant critics and now hoped to be able to get a few paying customers.

I will try and get back for the bargain lunch menu, and would love to hear anyone else's take. To me this feels like a Michelin star in the making and is a little reminiscent of Agapé when it first opened.

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