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Shepherd B. Goode | May 9, 200305:22 PM     3

It's been noted here before, but I just had lunch there, so a reminder about this small monument to what a chippie can be.

My three-piece tilapia lunch was rendered as nine separate pieces of fish, each a convenient size to pick up and eat, each of an appropriate thickness that the cooking oil could be extremely hot and yet not overcook the fish, each in a delicate, attractive crust that was more like dredged flour than batter. It was plenty of fish.

I've had catfish here, and cod, and snapper, and all are similarly generous in portion. The breading on the cat and the cod seemed a little heavier, and the pieces a little thicker, but equally perfectly cooked.

The crabcakes are reported to be excellent--four decent-sized ones to a serving. Lots of other items, from fish tacos to something like a stuffed veg-and-meat-of-your-choice Korean chimichanga. There are prawns, and oysters (only sometimes), and the usual variety of deep-fried veg. But I'm for the fish.

Oh, right. The cole slaw was sort of in hiding today; I was prepared to ignore it. But yow! Green and purple cabbage shredded, white vinegar, just enough mayo for a hint of creaminess more alluded to than delivered, and nothing else. No celery seeds, or red bell pepper, or raisins, or green papaya, or any of the other crap with which louts come between the lovely marriage of cabbage and vinegar. Just cole slaw. Aah.

The fries were, well, fries.

I also purchased two used books from their eclectic selection: a wildly revisionist biography of Francisco Franco, floridly written in 1939, 50 cents, and a Jewish cookbook, vintage 70s, a quarter.

Yorkshire Fish & Chips
248 Grand Avenue, Oakland
Corner of Park View, across from Children's Fairyland
510-251-0622
Don't know the hours, just go for lunch, and soon.

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