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Finally a good meal at Deshi Biryani

JFores | Jun 9, 2008 04:49 PM


I just got back in from my first excellent meal at Desh Biryani after two mediocre ones. Basically, the rule is avoid anything too Bangladeshi that isn't a bhorta (they do fish especially badly) and mix and match street snacks and Indian Chinese. The chicken lollipops, aloo bhorta, fuska, and kachi biryani were all top notch even if the prices are EXTREMELY HIGH compared to equivalent places in ei. Hillside/169th. The aloo bhorta was delicious and extremely mustardy. Excellent aloo bhorta, though the texture was admittedly a bit off from a smoother freshly made batch. The chicken lollipops were our Indian Chinese taster and they were good. A solid version of a classic Indian Chinese dish. The fuska came unassembled and the hand made finished products were excellent. The lack of sev was the only negative aspect of the assortment of fuska making options; really nice fuska. Finally, the kachi biryani was too oily (I'm comparing to home cooked stuff though so not a fair comparison), but the goat was cooked perfectly. The baby goat dominated the dish and it was impressive just how much of it there was. Also, the one large chunk of bone had meat literally falling off of it and shredding with a bit of fork pressure. Delicious. I only lament their lack of proper Bangladeshi food (the food there, aloo bhorta and biriyani excluded, is NOT Bangladeshi or at least not village Bangladeshi. It's a collection of Dhaka snack food and other primarily Dhaka based things; I would hesitate before considering Deshi Biryani to be a Bangladeshi restaurant TBH. I suspect that the entire aim of this restaurant is to feed a diverse crowd of South Asians who are shopping in Jackson Heights and this place is by no means directed towards a specifically Bangladeshi crowd.)

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