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Evergreen Shanghai on E.38th


Restaurants & Bars 2

Evergreen Shanghai on E.38th

Pat Goldberg | Apr 30, 2001 08:41 AM

We had dinner here last evening. We had had a strenuous day, were dog-tired and wanted a pleaseant meal without a lot of fuss involving reservations or parking. Evergreen fits the bill. It tends to be fairly empty in the evenings and we have never failed to get a parking space on the block.

Evergreen does a good job on most Shanghai specialties, but our reason for choosing it was eel. There are always several styles on the menu and last night was no exception. We chose eel in a garlic sauce and it was stellar. It was a whole eel, head, tail, bones, and all, in a hoisin-based sauce with the cloves from what must have been two heads of garlic. But the garlic was in no way overpowering. Fantastic!

To begin, we chose jellyfish and standard fried dumplings. Their jellyfish is usually outstanding, but last night it was merely good. On the other hand, the dumplings were some of the best I have had in a long time- the skins were oustanding.

We had hoped to have a sauteed kidney dish as well but, alas, they did not have it. I remembered an excellent dish of duck with young ginger we had once had there and inquired if it was available. The waiter said yes, so were ordered it, a mistake - albeit not a disaster. The dish was not the one I had remembered, and there were several things on the menu I would have preferred to what I got. However, a very tasty and satisfying meal overall.

I recommend this place, especially to those looking for Shanghai in midtown. I am sure it is more expensive than the Chinatown equivalent, but it is amazingly friendly, professional, and convenient.

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