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Empress Harbor AGAIN, but it ain't bad

Will Owen | Jun 13, 200512:45 AM

Dim sum Sunday brunch with the family at Empress Harbor, just because Papa is paying for it and that's by God where he goes. It's the usual mob scene, and as usual Pops raises enough fuss that we get escorted in pretty quickly and get the same 10-top we always get. This time, though, we start getting carts of items we hadn't seen before - cold white-cooked chicken feet with red vinegar for dipping; some long, sloppy noodle wraps with beef or shrimp inside; plain, non-barbecued spareribs in small, bite-size chunks; slices of chicken, subtly seasoned, cooked only just past rare and extremely juicy and delicious. My usual dislike of Chinese sweets ran up hard against some utterly delightful flaky-coated yeast buns with what we guessed was a yam-coconut filling; we also got some sesame balls, whose sweet chestnut filling does not thrill me, but they were fresh out of the fryer and much nicer than usual. Everything was either as good as we'd expect or stunningly better.

There were quite a few other dishes we hadn't seen there before that either were not brought to our table or showed up after we'd gotten to the Big Urp point; I really want to go back with our Cantonese-speaking Posse member so that we can maybe get some more different stuff. The part that perhaps impressed me the most was that I got a good look at the bill: for eight greedy people, with tax and before the tip, it was well under $10 a head. No wonder Pops likes this place!

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