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Donovan's Burgers: Downhill alert!

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Donovan's Burgers: Downhill alert!

Dan H. | Jan 30, 2001 07:26 PM

I hate to be the bearer of bad burger tidings but the coveted Donovan's cheeseburger in Woodside (see Jim's book) has slid considerably. Bout a year ago I tested out one of Donovan's cheeseburgers on Jim's recommendation and was suitably impressed. (Although I still preferred Big Nick's port wine cheddar burger on the Upper West Side, but that's another story.) Anyhow, this time round I dragged a chef friend of mine to Donovan's thinking he would go apesh*t over these burgers with their juicy flavorful choice cuts of burger beef and drippingly intense fried onions on top. To cut a long story short, we were pretty disappointed. The burgers were absolutely lacking in any flavor whatsoever (despite our heavy peppering and juicing with steak sause), the fried onions were wet and limp, the buns a little stale on the outside and dry on the inside, and the fries were...well...quite soggy. Even the lettuce and tomato looked like they had been soaked in Queens slush for about a week before being affixed to our plates. A decent, but somwhat flat Guiness didn't help matters much either. What the heck happened here? Maybe all those plugs in Time Out New York went to their heads. Maybe I caught them on an off night. But hey, it's a burger, what gives?

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