Demeyere Atlantis 9.5 Sauté Pan Review


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Demeyere Atlantis 9.5 Sauté Pan Review

UCLA909 | Oct 2, 2012 04:35 PM

After wrecking the tin lining on my vintage 9” Mauviel Sauté (don’t ask) I had to look for something that could work as well as Mauviel does without the fuss—-on nights when I am too tired or achy to give the proper post-cooking care a copper pan needs. I do a lot of French food and other cuisines that employ sauces made in the pan in which the protein had been cooked.

After reading everything I could find on S/S cookware on this site over the past few month (thank you all)-- it came down to the Sitram Catering (which I was always curious about) and the Demeyere Atlantis.

My best friend-- a professional chef-- is an All Clad fanatic, but those handles, which I have held in many stores over the years, are… fascinating. I have used them at his home from time-to-time and continue to find them… fascinating. (Forgive the Star Trek reference)

Tried the Sitram Catering-- Highly reactive almost too much so—- it burns oil at medium heat in the time it takes the Mauviel to get ready. Then I saw a Demeyre Atlantis on eBay-- I grabbed it and ran. My deepest apologies if I outbid anyone on this site.

Night One—- Sautéed Acorn squash

It heats up almost exactly as the Mauviel in terms of time, level of heat and actual heat of pan. Very impressive, which I guess is what 300+ dollars buys.

The Acorn squash browned beautifully, but the pan remained almost pristine. Interesting, great, but this may be problematic for deglazing, since there is almost nothing to deglaze.

The thing almost cleans itself.

Night Two-- Hot & Sour Soup --- yes, Hot & Sour Soup

Woks are big and need the high heat of professional stoves to function properly (just my opinion) and I’ve had lousy luck with them. Having used pots in the past—- I’ve found the need to have more working room to sauté the garlic, ginger etc.

So, lets try Superpan.

1. My best ever rendition of H&S soup
2. The egg drop worked. My version you need to drop a scrambled egg while boiling—- the poor heat retention of my pots has made for sad results.

In this case, I dropped the egg mixture onto/into the boiling liquid and the thing didn’t flinch but kept on boiling without skipping a beat.

Night Three—- Lamb Chops in Garlic Peppercorn Sauce

Precisely what I would normally use my incapacitated Mauviel for. Brilliant Sear on the chops -- even more so since they where direct from the store with only a half or so to get to room temperature, which was not enough time.

Enough brown for a nice deglaze and it reduced the wine/peppercorn/garlic mixture in record time—just like in the video where they compare the heat retention of the Demeyere to what looks like an All Clad.

The thing almost cleans itself.

Night Four-- Larb

Did an excellent job of cooking the ground pork using less oil than I would normally use—but the meat itself did not get much sear/browning action going- The onions however were on their way to burning. Good amount of brown on the pan for deglazing however.

The thing almost cleans itself.

Night Five-- Swordfish in Chien Sauce

Like the Lamb chops – this would call for the Mauviel, not for a pan sauce but to get that restaurant quality golden brown—- however unlike the chops, Swordfish is more delicate and can dry out quickly and start to break up.

Used it exactly like I would the Mauviel, medium heat with a small bit of onion in the pan to act as a temperature gauge. The onion splattered on me as I put the steaks in and my timing was thrown off-- instead of 4 minutes the first side got 5 or 6 – maybe 7, but it was done perfectly on the inside with excellent color. The Demeyere is very forgiving about time cock-ups. PS: These Swordfish steaks were 1¼ inch thick.

In Closing

The harsh reality appears to be that you do get what you pay for when it comes to cookware--- unless you get lucky-- eBay, estate sales, etc. I have two small Fisslers whose heat retention is so high, I can heat either up, throw in some chopped Kale cover the pan and put it on a trivet. The Kale will be done in 5 minutes and overcooked in ten.

The Atlantis is an amazing sauté pan, however it takes a bit of getting used to, its weight and its curious reluctance to brown does require one to make adjustments to one’s style and timing.

The heat retention of the Atlantis is in line with tinned copper and easier to maintain although it is as heavy as my 3mm tin-lined 11in pan. However with more humanoid-friendly handles than the All-Clad its not an impossible weight, especially with the side helper—- but caution, that side helper does get hot. Cleaning a pan has never been this easy, Demeyere does advise against putting the pan in the dishwasher—- but then, the pan costs more than some dishwashers.

PSS: All-Clad has reportedly redesigned those handles.

I’m not sure how these properties translate well into a pot for pasta or braising to justify as much money as they are asking for them and an Industry 5 or DeBuyer Affinity may become my new potato/pasta pot further down the road, can’t see justifying 300+ for something to boil potatoes in. PSSS: Sur La Table (Westchester NY) only sells the Atlantis as a set, which is nonsense and confirms my opinion of the place.

For dishes requiring major brown/burn action i.e., Paella the Atlantis may be problematic. I haven’t tried stovetop braising with the Atlantis so, that will be the final test and I’ll post my results.

--and now I can send my Mauviel to East Coast re-tinning without stressing. Ajax (Bleach alternative) combined with Bar Keeper’s Friend, is a very efficient cleaner for tough grease areas but can also effectively strip tin lining.

Extra Note

Cutlery and More and 125 West have the 9.5 skillet for $150.00. I’ve ordered one and will be watching these sites from now till Feb-March for more price cuts.

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