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delessio cupcakes -- a dissent

david kaplan | May 9, 200511:39 PM

It was my birthday last week, and more than anything I wanted cupcakes. I have long wished for cupcakes in San Francisco that approach my favorites elsewhere (Buttercup in NY, Party Favors in Boston, Cupcakes in Vancouver). After reading all the Delessio posts I hinted to my man without subtlety that they would be the ideal birthday treat.

I don't get it. Yes, they are beautiful. And, yes, the flavors are unusual. But all of the cupcakes I tried (and I was given a LOT) had more of a crumbly-brownie texture than a classic spongy cupcake texture. If I hadn't had "cupcake" on my mind I might have enjoyed them as elaborately frosted brownies, but the only cupcakes they reminded me of were stale cupcakes. Was this an off day at Delessio? Or do they always have this firmer, brownie-like texture?

My search for the classic cupcakes of childhood -- spongy moist cake piled high with buttercream frosting -- continues. I've been most impressed in SF by Miette and Citizen Cupcake, but again those don't approach my favorites in other cities.

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