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Croatia: Cavtat, Dubrovnik and Mljet

DutchGirlCooking | Sep 26, 201805:32 AM     1

Just came back from 8 days in Croatia and thought I'd share some of my experiences.

Cavtat is a lovely and relaxed little seaside town close to Dubrovnik. I loved Caffe Bar Ancora on the waterfront, they have a lot of (Croatian) wines by the glass and do small plates - not really a restaurant, but you could easily make a meal out of the dishes on offer. Lovely and friendly staff that reconized me after my first visit and new what was my favorite wine after my second visit.
Had dinner at Posejdon one night, a restaurant / pizzeria. My stuffed octopus was good, the pizza's at other tables also looked good. Downside is that they don't have any starters besides soup and a salad. Lovely view of the bay.

Dinner at the pretty fancy restaurant Leut was a let down, service was weird, it was like they did not know what to do with a woman dining solo (something I did not encounter elsewhere), the food was mediocre, I asked for a glass of wine and got a caraffe (more expensive, obviously), asked for a small sparkling water and got a large bottle of still water, etc.

Bugenvila is the most expensive and probably the most innovative and creative restaurant in town. I had a truly lovely dinner there. The negroni was very good, the food delicious (still thinking about the beef tartare with raw mushrooms and cacao!) and they handled an small glitch which such grace that I was truly impressed. If it hadn't been quite expensive, I would have gone back for a second dinner!

Third dinner was at Rokotin (where I also had lunch one day), it's a 5 minute walk out of town right on the peninsula. Dalmatian prosciutto and cevapi (grilled meat patties) were both simple but excellent, and the view is lovely.

Beach bar Little Star, on the tip of the peninsula, is apparently the best place ever to see the sunset. I was there for a couple of hours during the afternoon which was pretty great too! It's tiny, built entirely by the owner who is also a carpenter, seems to cling to the cliffs. The drinks are expensive but these were some of my favorite hours of the whole trip - watching the sea and sipping ice cold Croatian wine, so I would definitely recommend.

I went to Dubrovnik for the day (by ferry) while in Cavtat and had lunch at Pantarul, which was amazing. Very creative and great service. I had hake mousse on toast and a truly fabulous lemony risotto with squid and rock samphire. It's about a 45 minute walk from old town or a short cab ride.
On my last night before catching my flight home I had dinner at Bota sushi bar. The oysters and sushi were fabulous, it's right near the cathedral with a small terrace. This was my most expensive dinner of the entire trip but I just kept ordering sushi and sashimi not thinking about the consequences ;)
After dinner I tasted some wines at wine bar D'Vino. Lots of wines by the glass, and they have several wine flights where you can try different wines from one region, from one grape, etc. Nice staff, happy to chat about wine. Some tables outside in the alley but I actually preferred it inside, it's a very cozy bar.

Mljet is a small island, about a 2 hour ferry ride from Dubrovnik. I stayed in Polace which is a tiny sleepy village that comes to life when the fancy yachts arrive for the night. Still in September it was a very quiet and rellaxing place to stay. My favorite place for lunch, drinks and dinner was Konoba Ankora, a family run place that does simple but good cooking, everything fresh and well prepared, and exceptionally friendly service. The restaurant Stella Maris right next door was also quite good (had some lovely musseld in a wine tomato sauce there) but I kept going back to Ankora for the atmospehere and friendly welcome.

I hope this helps someone visitng this area!

Café Bar Ankora
Bugenvila in Cavtat
Beach Bar Little Star
Oyster & Sushi Bar Bota (Dubrovnik)
Stella Maris
Konoba Ankora
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