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After the faulty service experience in December at Kaiyo, I just wanted to get out of there. I walked down the street to the newly opened Cow Marlowe. It’s in the former Eastside West and one of the corners of the (infamous) Bermuda Triangle. The hostess and a friendly server, Eric, greeted me inside the door. When they asked how they could be of service, I replied, “I’m here to end my night with an Emily Luchetti dessert, if I may.” Eric started to describe the choice of seating areas, but I stopped him and asked for a tour instead. He showed me the designated areas, then I picked the back dining room for a calmer atmosphere.
The Vanilla bean creme brûlée with espresso shortbread, a classic of Luchetti’s portfolio, called to me from the dessert menu. I was enjoying it when Eric then brought out a comped Chocolate pudding with Creme chantilly, nibs and sea salt as a gift from the crew! He said that they recommend alternating bites with the vanilla. I then explained the terrible service at Kaiyo earlier in the evening, thanked him and the kitchen for their hospitality and tipped accordingly.
The opening staff at Cow Marlowe were brought in from the group’s other restaurants. That teamwork and experience shows in how smoothly things were running in the first month of operation. I did wonder though if by invoking the group's celebrity pastry chef's name when i came in, somehow I'd deployed some inside baseball lingo that brought out their best? The extra care extended to boxing up my leftover desserts for me. Opening the carton the next morning, seeing the espresso shortbread cookies carefully placed on a menu paper shelf high and dry above the wet components made me smile. Professionals at work.
3154 Fillmore Street
San Francisco, CA 94123
Emily Lucchetti's recipe for espresso shortbread:
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