Restaurants & Bars 13

Commis 2013 [Oakland]

Robert Lauriston | Feb 4, 2013 09:14 AM

Went on impulse last night (thank you football fans) and had the chef's counter menu. It was about as close to perfect a meal as I've had.

black bread with herbed (fromage frais?)

geoduck with celtuce and yuzu

wilted chicories, licorice herb, orach, tarragon, hazelnuts, yogurt, dill oil

house levain, salted cultured butter

poached egg, potato (soup?), breadcrumbs, spices, raw kohlrabi, broccoli rabe flowers: seriously a kick-ass dish

halibut, brown butter clam vinaigrette, toasted salsify, miners lettuce

crab seasoned with its roe, lemon leaves and blossom emulsion foam, radish, celery leaf

mushroom tisane: amazingly simple and good, I think it was just regular mushrooms steeped in water

guinea hen rolled in its skin, green farro, yellowfoot chanerellle

Cara Cara pudding, sassafras ice, Kishu mandarins: one minor complaint, the sassafras lingered too much on my palate

two cheeses with seeded toast and crackers: one was an amazing Camembert-style cheese from Tennessee, I wish I'd written down the name

chocolate truffle, jelly, some other sweet

It was a very light meal for so many courses. I certainly didn't leave hungry (started at 5:00, out at 7:30) but I did have some pasta and a sandwich later.

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