There was an article in the Personal Journal section of last week's Wall Street Journal about how tighter budgets at restaurants; increasing demand on the part of diners to know exactly where their food comes from; and restaurants' savviness that all loaves and fishes are not created equal...have conspired to motivate chefs to create false descriptions/origins for their creations. I.e. in the States, "wasabi-encrusted", "Blue Point" and "Argentinian beef" are most likely to be none of the above.
I suppose it's not revelatory, but worth being reminded of every once in awhile - is it that our own tastes and quests and tendencies are making monsters out of chefs and their menu-writers - or the other way around?
I've attempted to attach the article herewith, but readers may need a subscription in order to access it.
The author is Katy McLaughlin.
Interesting to note that the European title is "American Palates Demand only the finest in Foods..." (which appeared in the Wall Street Journal Europe on August 30) while the US version is entitled "Tighter Budgets force Chefs to resort to Gourmet Fakes" (and may have appeared on August 29).