In need of a quick bite I stopped in at Southern Rail for lunch. The space is unusual and kind of cool -- an atrium constructed between two railroad cars -- but the food was fairly pathetic. We had lousy sandwiches and tater tots. "Homemade tater tots?" I asked the waitress hopefully. "Just tater tots. You know, like, from a bag." Not to make a federal case of it, but serving tater tots as the house side seems pretty lazy. No worse, I suppose, than serving frozen fries or frozen onion rings, but is it too much to expect something non-frozen? Having just returned from a month in Taiwan, where every roadside stand and back alley is cooking up a creative storm, it strikes me all the more. I've made this point before -- and usually been assaulted with a barrage of learned commentary on restaurant cost structure -- but it often seems to me our standards are too low.