Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area Cambridge

Central Kitchen, Central Sq., Cambridge

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Central Kitchen, Central Sq., Cambridge

Limster | Dec 5, 2003 02:28 AM

Neat casual hipster vibes.

Oyster soup is hearty even if the creaminess isn't perfectly smooth. Great oysters, supple and slightly sweet, mild marine flavours. One cornmeal coated and fried, three or four others shucked raw and dropped into the hot soup for very light searing. A sprinkle of snappy chives for desirable textural interest.

Stewed venison is soft, a little moppy, with a slight graininess to the meat. Good carrots and little globes of soft potatoes. The garnish of a wild boar chop was flavourful and very moist close to the bone, but the meat was tight and tough. Nice touch with the scatter of lively pomegranate seeds, brightening the game.

Tarte tatin has good soft apples, baked dark. But the filling is too sweet, without as much caramelization as I would have liked. Soggy crust. Good vanilla ice cream and another welcome appearance of pomegranate seeds.

Good competent service. Acceptable prices.

Overall an ok experience, nothing stunning or exceptional, mostly decent to good cooking.

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